The Theory Behind The Dry Haircut

“Straight hair doesn’t lie,” says hairstylist Jon Reyman, the owner of the Spoke & Weal salon in Soho and now the only place I’ll go to get my hair done. Now, this isn’t some statement saying that one hair texture is better than another—it’s all about the cut. And it’s the reason why Jon, and all of the stylists at his salon, cut hair after it’s been blown out bone-straight.

We started talking about this straight haircut theory after I came in with what I thought were sloping layers but really were abrupt plateaus that didn’t look so good. He explained: “Even for curly-haired people, if it looks good straighter, it will look good curlier. But if it looks good curly, it might not look good straight or wavy. I cut hair dry—so I blow dry it smooth, taking texture out of the equation. It’s all about length and density. Texture is always managed by tools and technique—how you style it, how you blow dry it, how many products you put in it. Length and density is my job. A lot of hairdressers hide behind the texture. They’ll give you a haircut, then they’ll blow dry it out and hide the bad haircut they did. It’s not that they do it on purpose; it’s just what they do. So when you go home, you can’t recreate it.”

When I left, my layers were all smooth and no edge, like I wanted. As such, I’m now a convert to the method—some other things about the technique that are worth noting:

1. There’s no reason to cut hair wet beyond it being what we’ve always done.

2. Having your hair cut dry will get you more one-on-one time with your hairstylist to talk texture, since they’re working with your hair in its dry state, rather than when it’s wet and slippery.

3. It’s faster! (Or maybe Jon’s just really fast).

4. You’ll get more tactical styling advice. Your hairstylist can be really up front about what they’re doing to make your hair look good since there’s no abrupt transformation moment in which hair goes from wet to dry. Everything’s pretty transparent when you’re getting a dry cut.

5. Dry cutting hasn’t really caught on yet—find one of the salons that offers it, or ask your hairstylist if they’re open to it and take it from there. Tell them you’re after an honest haircut.

—Claire Knebl

 

The post The Theory Behind The Dry Haircut appeared first on Into The Gloss.

Montana Cox’s Pixie: Just Add Water

And now, a break from your regularly scheduled programming for a PSA on damaging your hair, featuring Montana Cox:

“I’ve been through major hair trauma. For the Givenchy show, they were like, ‘We don’t want to put you in a wig. We’re going to dye your hair blond.’ I was like, ‘Awesome, great.’ We did it. Keeping that up was bad enough with doing your roots. My hair used to be longer, but it kept getting shorter from all the dyeing. Then we dyed it back to brown, and I did a job where they were like, ‘No, we want it platinum again.’ I didn’t want to, but OK. Then they were like, ‘We want it brown again!’ I went back to brown, my hair fell out, and my agency essentially said, ‘You can cut your hair, or you can’t work.’ I didn’t want to do this, but it was weirdly liberating. My agent was there with me for the cut and was like, ‘It’s going to be OK.’ But when it was over, I started bawling. Everyone in the salon was like, ‘Is she OK? Is she being forced to do this?’ I was like, ittt’sss fineee.

My hair’s been through a lot, but now it’s growing out, and it’s healthy—not falling out. I’m really happy. Right now it’s in that awkward-mullet stage where I constantly ask myself, ‘Do I cut it? Do I not cut it?’ I’m currently in the middle of that situation, and I just look like an excellent dude now. Actually, when I first got my hair cut, I wore a wig for the first couple of days…I literally couldn’t walk outside without it. Though, everyone was like, ‘What the fuck are you doing? Take that shit off.’

I complain, but it’s actually a little fun and super easy—especially in the summer. From all of this hair trauma, I realize I just really want nice, long, luscious hair. I put treatments in it every single day. I sleep with coconut oil in my hair…It’s so exciting to have healthy hair. You don’t have to do anything to worry about it or straighten it or blow dry it. You just get out of the shower and go.”

The Australian model (she won her season of Australia’s Next Top Model if your looking for something to binge in your spare time) opts for no product most days—save for that overnight coconut oil—so when she needs a bit of a refresher, she reaches for the nearest sink. No, you can’t take it with you, but it’s certainly more reliable than just about anything else—not to mention cost effective. Water! What can’t it do?!

Montana Cox (IMG) photographed by Tom Newton on April 2, 2015.

Sarah Brannon joins the awkward-haircut support group with advice on how to deal with unruly bangs. Read more from Water Week here.

The post Montana Cox’s Pixie: Just Add Water appeared first on Into The Gloss.

How To Get The Haircut You Want

There was probably a point in life when you, too, wanted “The Rachel,” even if you didn’t know why. (No judgement.) Everyone had it—and it was really easy to ask for! You could feign hair knowledge simply by reading your weekly dose of People.

Of course, whether or not you ended up looking like Rachel is another story. Chances are you got some form of the lob—it just didn’t have the ubiquitous name yet—that looked pretty good, just nothing like Jennifer Aniston. What she had, in more technical terms, was something akin to short layers at the crown of the head with a side-swept fringe, achieved with just a bit of disconnection. But People didn’t say that. So unless you went to beauty school, how were you supposed to know?!

While a picture may be worth 1,000 words, being able to talk to your hairstylist in concrete terms is probably more useful. Communication is key, so we asked some of the industry’s top hairstylists for the must-know terms you should have in your vocabulary (or at least on your phone) next time you ask for a trim but really mean The Karlie.

Weight removal: “If you have thick, dense hair and desire something lighter, looser, and more flowing, then asking your stylist to take weight out of your hair is your best bet. This is done by using the scissors or a razor to carve out slivers of hair and lighten up the overall effect,” said Allen Thomas Wood, hairstylist at Bumble and bumble.

Undercut: Can be employed as a look or a means to an end. The latter technique lifts weight from your hair, the former can be anything from half a shaved head to a sliver of hair shaved underneath the top mantle of hair. Take it from celebrity hairstylist Jen Atkin, whose clients include Khloé Kardashian and Jennifer Lopez: “The undercut is one of the most popular hair techniques right now. It means to cut the hair underneath slightly shorter, while maintaining length on the top. Extreme versions of this are popular with super-short pixie cuts, but the same technique can be used in a much more subtle way to remove weight and bulk in a haircut while maintaining a longer, blunt finish.”

Razor: This is a hair-cutting tool used to remove volume from hair by collapsing the cut without adding layers, Edward Lampley, also over at Bumble, said. It can also be used to create texture, Jen added. “I love using it on fine hair types because it means I don’t have to sacrifice the fullness of the hair. A razor works great to create movement on all hair types,” she said.

Understandably, a bad razor cut (often resulting in frayed ends) can train you to stay far away from them, but NY-based hairstylist at Little Axe Salon Rubi Jones wants you to know it takes a wise stylist to wield a razor. She says: “The razor should always be used very deliberately and should never damage your hair. Despite what people think, you can use a razor on straight hair, curly hair, super-curly hair, fine hair, medium hair, and especially on thick hair. The key to a good razor cut is a hairstylist’s training. Each part of that tiny—and sharp!—blade is meant to be used in a specific way. And when not used correctly, it can cause a bit of a disaster. Make sure to choose a stylist that’s been well-trained before getting a razor cut.”

Blunt Cut: A haircut with no layers, cut straight-across where the weight falls on the bottom of the hair. Also known as a “solid” or “heavy” cut. “A stylist that uses scissors to create sharp, graphic lines will deliver this sort of cut,” Allen said. If your hair is thin, fine, or fragile, ask for this when you want a haircut that preserves the density and overall integrity of your hair, he added.

Point Cutting: Cutting hair with the scissors positioned vertically. “It’s one of my favorite techniques to add the lightest bit of texture to the hair ends. Very light point cuts create a softer edge,” Jen said.

Dusting: The term people who really mean “just a trim” need to know when they go into the salon. “It’s when you literally just cut the ends of the hair that are split or broken,”—nothing else to it, Edward said.

Inch: “An inch is an inch,” Editorial Hairstylist James Pecis said. “Sometimes a few inches in the real world is a foot in the the client world. Refresh yourself with a ruler before you say ‘a few inches.'”

Layers: “Layers are separate from your overall hair length, they are shorter pieces of hair that are should seamlessly fall together and give your hair volume and dimension. They can be on the surface of your haircut or within it. You can’t get one layer ‘here and there’ or ‘just three layers,'” Rubi said. “Instead you should use a reference spot for your shortest layer and then all your layers will fall from there to where your overall hair length is.”

Short layers are used to create a choppy cut. Alternatively, Allen suggests the terms “flowing, blended, and seamless” for anyone with longer hair desiring the undone, effortless, beachy look. “By keeping the layers—both face-framing and throughout the back—long and seamless, this effect is achieved.”

Weight Line: The part of your hair cut that holds the most weight (think of it as the base).

Graduation: “The hair graduates from longer to short. This can relate to graduating the back of a bob or ‘forward grad’ refers to layering around the front of the hairstyle,” James said.

Bangs (aka Fringe): Face-framing layer of hair cut over the eyes. Can be side-swept and blended into layers with the rest of your hair, blunt and heavy, cut straight-across, or light and wispy/choppy through point-cutting.

“Carve and Slice”: Individual curl-cutting technique where the hairstylist assesses each curl and carves out the haircut piece-by-piece rather than just taking length off from the bottom, which in turn could lead to a stacked pyramid effect.

Dry Cutting: Typically, this is a second-round of hair cutting done when hair is already styled and dry, but it can also be used as a primary cutting method that’s great for attention to shape and detail. It also allows a hairstyle to be cut the way you prefer to wear your hair texture.

Bob: A haircut with the weight line at your chin/just below the ears. A lob is a slightly longer version of the bob, with the weight line grazing the collarbone.

Disconnection: Not connecting main sections of the hairstyle through seamless layers. When picked up, there will be a clear difference between the front and back of the hair or general sections.

Pixie: Short haircut close to the scalp. Not long enough to be considered a bob, even if you’re not looming on Mia Farrow territory.

Got any more? Add ’em to the list below.

Image via Getty. Get acquainted with the hair salon that’s making LA cool again.

The post How To Get The Haircut You Want appeared first on Into The Gloss.

The Lob Is Still In

I’m not a brave, experimenting person when it comes to haircuts. I had a few attempts with bobs some years back, but I ended up looking like a 13-year-old school girl. Then I embraced fringe, but you’ve got to have a particular kind of patience to maintain that. Eventually, I reluctantly accepted that longish, normal, not-very-interesting hair was my thing—nothing to write home about, but certainly not offensive.

And then the long bob, aka the lob, happened. And kept happening. It’s been at least three years now—maybe four—if you’re really up on your trends. It started with the models (hello, The Karlie), eventually filtering down through Hollywood and then to Instagram celebs. By the time every stylish girl sitting next to me on the tube had one, I relented, seriously thinking to have found the cut for me (an easy solution for those I-want-a-change-but-not-really faint-hearted people like me) and absolutely loving it, until…well, apparently the lob was declared over.

But let’s talk about it, shall we? OK, it has been given a code name, and that’s never a good sign. And yes, last time I checked, Instagram had 288,000 pictures tagged #lob, which doesn’t make it the most unique and revolutionary haircut of the century. And I can even admit that I probably have a couple of friends with the same cut (a fact that can crack a bit my “cool” attitude in sporting it around).

But I warned you, I’m not the most brave client at hair salons. Changing at this point sounds like a no-go—who enjoys growing out their hair? I think all of this only proves that the lob just works. It still works months after its boom, and it works on everyone. Even products become sort of interchangeable—and style as you like. The right volume can be a little tricky to find, and for me Living Proof’s Full Shampoo and Full Root Lifting Hairspray are perfect for the right balance of weight and levity.

At this point, I just tell people accept it! Accept that other girls have the right of finding the (same) perfect haircut once in a lifetime. Sometimes mainstream is not the enemy. After all, why should we turn our back to a bob that has grown in the most perfect, regular way, snapped just a moment before crossing the collarbone for good? It has always been around—Emily docet—and I’m sure it will always be.

—Agnese Capiferri

Agnese Capiferri is an Italian writer living in London.

Arizona Muse photographed by ITG.

The post The Lob Is Still In appeared first on Into The Gloss.

Sarah Brannon’s Unbreakable Bangs

“When I was starting out modeling and living in LA, I had the exact same haircut that I have now except it was platinum blonde. I got to New York and my agency was like, ‘No,’ so they dyed my hair dark, and by the time I got to Paris Fashion Week, my bangs had grown a little bit longer to the point where I didn’t really have bangs anymore,” Sarah Brannon says about her wonky, but still enviable, bangs. It’s probably what makes them cool—the fact that there’s no copying the style since they just sort of grew out that way. Either way, they’ve served her well, landing her in the opening spot at a Givenchy show.

“’Sarah, we want you to open the show,’ Riccardo told me, so I was like, ‘Fuck yeah!’ And then he was like, ‘…but, we want to cut you hair—just a little trim.’ The next day at the show they cut my hair ridiculously short. It was a very graphic, straight-across, and blunt cut. My hair grew out really fast though, and my bangs grew out really long, so I managed, but then I got baby bangs for Alexander Wang. I’m OK with it. I’d rather people let my hair grow because I’m trying to grow it out, but if it’s for an important job or something, then I’ll totally do it. The thing is, I get really bored of my hair every couple of months, so when they said they were going to cut my hair I was like, ‘Let’s do it! I’m totally down!’ But a week later I was like, ‘OK, this is kind of a bitch’ because my hair is so thick, and it was a blunt cut. It was like a fucking triangle. It looked like I had a fucking triangle on my head.”

Triangle-head syndrome is real, particularly if you’re on the uphill battle against that frayed look of rampant split ends. Sarah still uses drugstore shampoo and conditioner, but follows up with olive and coconut oils from Whole Foods, she said, which helps with the damage from various blunt cuts, heat styling, and black dye. For low-heat styling, she air dries most of the way, finishes off with a quick all-over blow dry, and sprays a bit of Captain Blankenship’s Mermaid Sea Salt Hair Spray, but just at the roots, “otherwise it will make my hair poof out down here. I just put it in my scalp and let it mess.” Now you know.

Sarah Brannon (New York Model Management) photographed by Tom Newton.

The post Sarah Brannon’s Unbreakable Bangs appeared first on Into The Gloss.