A rough browsing of YouTube leads me to believe that at least 50 percent (probably more) of the hair tutorials on the internet are about how to “achieve” bedhead/the model bend/beach hair. I get it, but can someone tell me: When did having “done-looking” hair become so uncool? You know what is also cool? Effort! Which is why you need a giant U-shaped pin in your life. It’s sleek, simple, uncomplicated—and it holds all hair types in an elegant twist.
I say this mainly because I’m completely enamored with Odile Gilbert’s line, which is also sold at Colette. The woman did the hair for Marie Antoinette for lord’s sake—I will do whatever she suggests. However, if you’re not interested in waiting four long, hard weeks for shipping from France, some less expensive, easier to find alternatives exist here and here.
Then it’s honestly too simple to even call it a tutorial. First, twist and bend:
As Odile might say, “Voila!”
Now that you’ve mastered her hair accessories, read about Odile Gilbert’s own beauty routine (and see her palatial Paris bathroom) in her Top Shelf. Or read more of ITG’s How-Tos here.
An overdue congratulations are due to the hairstylist of our hearts, James Pecis. In October, he was named Oribe’s newest global ambassador, meaning he’ll never run out of Dry Texturizing Spray ever again. To celebrate, we hosted James, his first assistant Adlena, and model Tiana Tolstoi (who’s got one of the best heads of hair we’ve seen in a while), to bang out a couple of hairstyles with his new arsenal of products. This was Tom’s favorite look—below, he elaborates:
All I really want in this world is glamour. People like to call it ’70s inspired, but if it’s really good, it can be decadeless. Very Stéphane Marais, Inez & Vinoodh, Raquel Zimmermann styled as Jerry Hall…most would say this doesn’t translate to the “everyday woman,” but I think anyone can wear anything if that attitude is there. And if it doesn’t take a deathly amount of effort, what’s the excuse then? Come at me.
Anyway, James is known for cool braids and “downtown” hair, so this was different. But if anyone is going to make having volume cool, it’s James. He called it ’70s cult hair, but to me it reads more like Biba-style mixed with something you could definitely wear to a holiday party at Marc Jacobs’ house.
James started with clean hair (he washed Tiana’s existing product out in the sink with a forthcoming Oribe clarifying shampoo mousse made with charcoal). From there, he prepped with Oribe Maximista Thickening Spray and blew it dry. Then he layered in some Dry Texturizing Spray and curled Tiana’s whole head with a 32 mm Marcel iron (a standard curling iron with clamp works too, though—we asked). Once the curls set and cooled, he brushed the hair with a nylon and boar bristle brush to “aerate the hair,” meaning get that really great, fluffy texture. The motion is down and out, down and out, starting with the bottom waves and working your way to the crown. After the hair is dry, the whole shebang takes about 10 minutes. Big hair you can perfect even when running late? Thanks, James.
Tiana Tolstoi photographed by the author. Makeup by Nina Park (The Wall Group).
A few months ago, we met Anna Speckhart. We learned a lot of things about her (that she hunts, and that you really can accessorize a vintage band t-shirt with pearls). But key among them was that she is a proponent of big, bouncy, beautiful hair—and hot rollers as the best way to get it. Seeing as we’re proponents of any way to look more like Anna Speckhart, we asked for more information. Being a sweetheart, she complied. Take it away, Anna:
Growing up, I was a firm believer that more was more. My daily beauty routine went something like this:
Step 1. Full coverage foundation (to hide my freckles)
Step 2. Bronzer (picture Snooki)
Step 3. Eyeliner, eyeshadow, mascara (picture Snooki again)
Step 4. Glossy lip (Lancôme Juicy Tube in Pink Bling, to be exact)
Step 5. Hot rollers
I was an everyday, never-nominated Miss America.
Flash forward to 2015: I have ditched the entire makeup routine for a much more natural look (freckles included), but I’m still obsessed with the hot rollers. To me they are the total package: easy, come in all sizes, and last for days… (get your mind out of the gutter).
I’m a fan of Conair Xtreme Instant Heat Ceramic Rollers, which you can find at any retail store. I start by rolling the top layer of my hair from the back, followed by the sides. While they set, I throw on a face mask (I’m currently crazy for the Shiseido White Lucent Power Brightening Mask), eat breakfast with one hand, and check Instagram with the other. They should be good to take out after 15 minutes—but if you get lost cyber stalking your ex’s new girlfriend, you can leave them until you’re 152 weeks deep into scrolling. If you’ve past that point, you’ll be doing no favors to yourself or your hair.
As soon as the rollers are out, simply shake and presto! Curls! Depending on your style, you may want to tone the volume up or down. If your Pinterest beauty board is filled with Dolly Parton and Farrah Fawcett, flip upside down and spray generously with hair spray (Elnett is always a favorite, but make sure you’re in room with air or you’re guaranteed to lose a few brain cells). If you like a more subtle approach, simply work a little Moroccan Oil through the ends. Personally speaking, I’ve always heard the bigger the hair the closer to heaven, and I’ve got to get there somehow.
As you may have picked up these last few weeks, one concealer does not fit all. There’s formulas good for spot covering, formulas good for brightening, and then there’s the palette—which we’ll discuss in depth today—that’s helpful for correcting any scars or hyperpigmentation as you see fit. This is the one I like to call the tragic palette, full of life’s correctors. Sun-burnt skin, bruising, scars, hangover under-eye circles, allergy redness, and any other of life’s run-ins that we have and will experience sometime in our lives.
The best palette for this is Make Up For Ever’s Palette 5 Camouflage Cream Palette in 5 Professional Corrective Shades. It’s got an apricot, lavender, mint green, honey, and bisque color and each is highly concentrated in pigment for major coverage. Let’s take it color by color:
Apricot: This one combats bluish discoloration and is perfect for concealing bruises, dark circles, and broken capillaries that leave dark marks. Pat the color on with your ring finger over discoloration on bare skin. Concentrate on the discolored areas then blend outward, and use a damp sponge to blend the edges seamlessly into the skin. Next, apply a sheer foundation over your entire face to lock it in place and set it with loose powder. This should cut down discoloration at least by half, if not more!
Lavender: Sallow as hell, coming out of the flu, or just having a really life-sucking week? A touch of lavender will do the trick. Mix the lavender with your everyday concealer or foundation in the palm of your hand and, with a damp sponge, stamp the mixture where needed and blend. Since I’m naturally sallow-colored (not a bad thing), I love to highlight with this mixture along my cheekbones, the center of my forehead, and on the middle of my chin. It creates such a beautiful effect.
Mint: Green cuts the redness out instantly. Apply with your ring finger directly on red areas, which for most people is around the nose. Use a damp sponge to blend outward, then use a stamping motion to dissolve the concealer into the skin. The last step is to apply a sheer foundation over your enter face to unify your complexion.
Honey: I use this color to even out the sun spots and freckles I have on my cheeks. The warm color gets rid of the shape of sun marks and softens the appearance of the surface. As always, apply with your ring finger on the sun-damaged area and blend as if its a bronzer over the cheeks and cheek bones. Then, apply your favorite blush over your cheeks. It’s a very flattering look in general. Who doesn’t love a dusty rose?
Bisque: This is an added color that’s great for quick touch ups throughout the day. You could even use this translucent color to blend with the other colors for targeted issues. Like I said: the perfect complete palette.
Photos courtesy of the author. There’s more concealer where that came from—read Stacey’s first and second concealer posts and conceal to your heart’s content. Say conceal one more time (conceal).
Whoever decided May and June primetime for nuptials was a marketing genius—though a fair amount of credit is probably due to the brides who decided they just weren’t into the whole “winter wonderland” schtick. Either way, happy wedding season, folks! Let’s talk about some famous brides, because that’s generally a topic the betrothed and non-betrothed can get excited about equally.
Bridal beauty isn’t necessarily avant-garde—nor does it need to be. The whole premise behind the wedding day look is that you want to look like your ideal version of yourself. Still, a little oomph over your everyday moisturizer, concealer, mascara combo is probably in order, just to make everything feel oh-so- very Special Day. In which case, an inspo picture or two can only help matters. This week’s (there will be more…): Priscilla Presley in her 1967 wedding to the King. Story goes, Elvis first saw 14-year old Priscilla Ann Wagner when he was stationed in Germany and she was living at an Air Force Base. When discharged, the two resorted to communicating through letters. Fast forward a bit (we’re leaving a lot out because we guess you want to get to the beauty aspect), Elvis asked Priscilla’s parents to let her move to Memphis where she would finish school. They got married in Vegas when she was 21.
The look was prime 1967—cut crease, kitten lashes, and a dramatic cat eye without going too drag. Still, it’s surprisingly wearable, says makeup artist Carolina Dali, who we consulted to update the technique for modern day brides. The only thing that dates it is the lip liner and heavily stenciled brows, to which there is a compromise. To channel the Queen to Elvis’ King, Carolina breaks it down in more detail:
EYES Make no mistake, this is not no-makeup makeup. And every once and a while, it’s nice to make a change from the norm. First step: liner. Because of the precision needed to get into the inner corner of the eye, gel wont work here. Carolina’s go-to is Tom Ford’s Eye Defining Liquid Liner Pen in Deeper. It’s dual-ended, with a more traditional brush tip brush on one side, and a micro felt-tipped brush on the other—perfect for getting in the inner corner and perfecting simple details. “It’s super black, and it really stays on,” Carolina says. “That super-skinny tip is going to be able to give you the control to get into the inner corner of the eyes without it looking too thick. You want the line on the inner corner to be very thin—it will gradually become thicker about one-third of the eye in.” The eyeliner is softened by the lashes—think big and bushy. For Priscilla’s eyes, go for a strip of false lashes like Esquido’s Voila Lash Mink False Eyelashes, but keep the lashes minimal on the bottom. Priscilla’s volume comes from shadow applied on the lower lash line. Take a cool-brown eyeshadow, like Charlotte Tilbury’s The Rock Chick Luxury Palette, and an angled brush to softly sweep a line on the bottom of your eye. The shade on the upper-right-hand corner, Enhance, is great for the lower lash line. Priscilla’s bottom liner extends outward and softly fades away creating the look of a shadow cast from her lashes. Marilyn Monroe was also another fan of doing this, and it’s a good trick for when you really want to get the ’60s-sex-kitten point across. On the actual lid though, just a sheer wash of a light taupe. The shade Prime (upper left hand of the quad) does the trick. It’s just the slightest bit of shimmery—not necessarily sparkly—to keep the Vegas theme contemporary.
Priscilla’s brows are likely penciled in and arched, though we’re not going to do that to you on your wedding day. Instead, to update the brows while still in the realm of Mrs. Presley, Carolina suggests going full, but not blocky or strict. “I would recommend Bobbi Brown Brow Kit in Saddle/Mahogany 2. It’s a powder formula, looks more natural, and blends better than a pencil. Using the Chanel #12 Angled Brow Brush, I apply the lighter brow powder to give the brows a fuller effect, followed with the darker shade to fill in any gaps where there’s missing hair. Set the brows with a light sweep of Marc Jacobs Beauty Brow Tamer Grooming Gel,” Carolina says.
Then, go nude on the lips. Priscilla’s are the a classic ‘60s pale shade, but with a little more color than your full-on foundation lips. Lighter the better though, but stay within the range of not-too-pink, not-too-beige. Tom Ford Lip Color in Blush Nude layered over a a full application of Votre Vu’s Drawmatic Lip Liner in Naked is the way to go.
“Because the focus is on the eyes, I would keep the skin as clean and minimal as possible,” Carolina says. A lightweight but radiant foundation, such as Giorgio Armani’s Luminous Silk Foundation, still feels like your skin but gives it a porcelain-finish. And because there’s so much going on the eyes, no blush, no bronzer. Spritz on the vintage Guerlain Shalimar—and sure, you can walk down the aisle to “Can’t Help Falling In Love,” but you’re much more of an unexpected “She Wears My Ring” bride anyway.
Image of Priscilla Presley and Elvis Presley via Getty. Photographed by Tom Newton.