Anybody with a laptop, internet connection, and face can produce a YouTube beauty tutorial, but it's not often that we're caught off-guard. Such was the case with the inherent talent of newcomer Emmy Blotnick. How long will it be until you see her name quoted as the makeup artist on an ITG Backstage post? Watch her "How to Really Get Pretty, Strong Eyebrows" tutorial [above], and see for yourself.
Naomi Campbell is clearly a telepathic elf princess. Consider the facts:
1. She looks good in everything.
2. She's dated De Niro, Depp, and DiCaprio.
3. She's survived more scandals than Olivia Pope.
4. Oh, and she can tell the damn future through Young Adult Fiction.
Naomi's always been my favorite probable immortal—sorry, Pharrell—but reading Swan, the Nostradamus-worthy novel she coauthored back in 1994, really sealed the deal.
Swan is about a supermodel who mentors a group of five aspiring catwalkers called the New Faces (Funny coincidence: The second season of Naomi's show, The Face, premieres tomorrow). Why is she mentoring them? As "luck" would have it, there's this competition where one girl will win a huge cosmetics contract and become America's next... well, you know.
Even if, for some unfathomable reason, you don't care that Naomi Campbell accurately foretold the 1999 YSL spring ad campaign a half decade early—Inspired by famous paintings! Starring Kate Moss! On page 93!—there's still Swan's amazing writing. It's like Daphne du Maurier watched Unzipped, got buzzed off half a Zima, and decided to make Rebecca a dishy roman à clef.
And it's not like Naomi is shy about her powers, either. One of the characters, Amy (as in "sounds like Naomi"), is a devastatingly gorgeous Jamaican-British model who has clairvoyant dreams. She told us all right there, and we, foolish mortals, just didn't notice. Lots of other characters are either real people—Kate, Linda, and Christy all get shout-outs—or have super transparent names, like "Water Detroit" (aka River Phoenix).
In all 360 pages, I could only find one discrepancy: "Zimmerman. Not a good name for a model," on page 74. Although... Raquel Zimmermann's name does have two 'n's, so maybe Naomi was just being precise. In fact, let's go with that explanation and never, ever question her again. She clearly knows what she's talking about. And there's a 75% chance she's The Highlander.
Photos by Elizabeth Brockway.
There’s a lot of real estate on your cheeks, and you've probably noticed that the shades meant for the hollows have no business on the apples. The success of perfect cheekbones or that flush that feigns coyness very much relies on placement. But since the system failed us by not making blush application part of the standard junior-high curriculum, we asked makeup artist Suzy Gerstein to help us make a hard-and-fast guide to where to put what colors—and why. Today we're talking reds.
The Effect: Red blush gives the impression of innocence, health, and romance. It doesn’t look sophisticated, mature, or cosmopolitan. It mimics the effect of running in the cold, or the way you look after making out with someone—it’s like bringing blood to your face.
The Placement: Concentrate the color on the apples of your cheeks and blend it out toward the edges of your face. The boundaries will depend on your face shape. If you have really high cheekbones, you can blend the color a little lower, but it should really stop an inch above the jawline. I always recommend looking at yourself in profile, because it shouldn’t go all the way to the perimeter of your face. You can also apply it on the tip of the nose so it sort of looks like you ran around the block. You can use your fingers or a big, fluffy brush to get a more diffused look. Even when I’m using a powder blush, I’ll finish the application with my fingers to kind of bring the makeup back to life.
The Products: In the case of such a bright blush, cream colors can be more forgiving because they don’t streak, and you can blend them away with your fingers. RMS Lip 2 Cheek in Rapture and Shiseido Orchid are really good reds.
Anthony Turner (L'Oreal Professional): "So this collection is a collaboration between David Lynch and [designers] Humberto and Carol. It feels a little bit Twin Peaks-y, so we wanted to do something with the hair that felt very classic. We’re kind of referencing the ‘90s, and whenever I reference the ‘90s I think of a ponytail. And we wanted the hair to be away—it couldn’t be down because of the proportions of the clothes. But how do you do a ponytail but make it David Lynch-y? What can you do to have it feel a little odd? For us, that meant doing this really strong center part with the ponytail attached in the middle at the back of the head—really severe. And then wrapping hair extensions around the ponytail. The oddness comes in with the fact that we’re chopping the ponytail really blunt at the bottom. I don’t see girls with that kind of severe blunt hair anymore; it’s all layered and kind of piecey. This season is all straight and blunt with a kind of rebellion against layers. It’s very finished, there’s a polish, a richness. The Kenzo designers are very known for their downtown girl, but this time we’re bringing her uptown. She’s a bit more finished. It’s a rebellion against the grunge thing that we’ve seen over the past few seasons."
Aaron de Mey (MAC): "We’re making a statement about David Lynch, since he’s the inspiration, and he did the set and the music. So I’m referencing Blue Velvet, because that’s one of my favorites. Humberto wanted the models to look really cinematic, but super young. And the set's really, really dark, so I’m trying to keep the kids looking cool, and refreshed, but also a little awkward. So I’m doing an arched eyebrow to give the look some strength, and then I’m giving them an electric blue gel liner. I’m making it really pointy, and really graphic. Then everything else is really easy—dewy skin and a beige lip. No blush, because I want everything to be about the eyes. I think blush looks too innocent—it takes things into a different world and I wanted them to look a bit cold. And I love how they look very creamy and the only color is the electric blue. It is MAC Chromaline, which is genius—the color's Marine Ultra. I love it because it reminds me of Yves Klein blue."
Xiao Wen Ju photographed by Emily Weiss backstage at Kenzo Fall 2014 in Paris, France on March 2, 2013.
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